Hot Baths And History At Hamat Gader

The hot springs of Gedara, or Hamat Gader, have been a spa and entertainment center for over 2,000 years, and their mineral-rich waters have been known for their therapeutic powers for as long. Bursting through cracks formed in the Syrian-African Rift, these hot springs are formed by boiling water from inside the earth and have absorbed minerals along the way to the surface. Similar springs may be found in several other locations around Israel, including the Dead Sea region, Hamei Yoav in the northern Negev and Tiberias.

According to Epithanius, a 4th century historian, the mixed bathing and theatrical performances led church fathers to warn that "Satan is at work at Hamat Gader". Indeed one spring was named Eros, after the Greek god of love, and another was known as Anteros, after the god who punished those who did not return love. The springs, known for their therapeutic properties, were frequented successively by Greeks, Romans, Jews and Moslems until the eighth century. In its heyday during the Roman era, Hamat Gader boasted seven springs with varying temperatures; the focal point was the hot mineral spring now known as 'Hell's Pool' (Ma'ayan Hagehinom) in Hebrew or the 'Frying Pool' (Ain Hakleh) in Arabic. At this time, the majority of the pools were covered with high domed ceilings and enclosed by walls fashioned of marble.

Today Hamat Gader is operated jointly by four kibbutzim, who have developed the area to include attractions with appeal for the entire family. In addition to the spa facilities, the site now boasts a water park, an aviary, a reptile park, and archeological excavations. These excavations include remains of a large Roman theater which once accomodated 2,000 spectators, and an open-air pool called the Hall of Fountains, surrounded by 32 fountains shaped like animal heads, which once sprinkled cool water on the bathers.

Of the many legends about the spa, one tells of the disciple Paul, who wanted to visit Hamat Gader when his health failed. As he could not afford the entrance fee, he bathed in a side pool reserved for the poor. The pool cured him of his ails, and Paul wanted to lift his voice in a prayer of thanks, but he lost his powers of speech. At that moment, a spring of fresh water burst forth, Paul drank the water and his voice returned. The spring is still called Ein Boulus, Arabic for 'Paul's Spring'.

Because of the high temperatures of the springs, the water must be cooled before bathers can enter. The strong smell of sulphur is quite overwhelming for first-time visitors, but it is these chemicals that work their therapeutic wonders. A dip in the thermo-mineral pool will relax tense muscles and is particularly helpful to those who suffer from pains in their joints. In addition, the heat of the water expands peripheral blood vessels, lowering blood pressure and increasing the heart rate. Ephrat Moscowitz, who has been working at Hamat Gader for three years, explains that ten minutes of relaxation in the hot pool of Hamat Gader is equal to the physical exercise one gets while walking briskly for three kilometers. Healing massages as well as aloe vera or seaweed mud wraps for stimulating circulation are also on offer for adult visitors at the spa.

Perhaps just as famous as the springs is the reptile park, where some 200 alligators may be viewed while walking around a secure path. Adults and children alike are mesmorised by their size. Crossing wooden bridges, visitors can look at the giant reptiles below, lazing in the Middle Eastern heat with their formidable mouths open wide. Depending on the season, one may visit the incubators, or have a picture taken holding baby alligators, all under the careful supervision of the staff. However, Moscowitz warns against daredevil stunts. "In the period I have been working here, two kids have jumped over the barriers into the pools, in order to show off to their friends. This happened in the spring, just as the alligators were waking up from their winter hibernation; at this time, they are very hungry, and may well attack a human being. In these cases, we arrived just on time. Visitors should stay on the path - the view from there is close enough."