The Jewish community of Cochin displays its heritage at Moshav Nevatim.
By Janet M. Moshe
Legend has it that in the days of King Solomon, trade abounded between India's Malabar Coast and the Land of Israel. The fleets of Solomon allegedly returned to the port of Jaffa laden with teak, ivory and peacocks that may still be found in southern India today. But concrete evidence of a Jewish connection with India came only some two millenia later, in the form of bronze plaques dated to the tenth century engraved with the rights granted to a Jewish leader. By that time, a Jewish community had established itself in the city of Cochin, in the state of Kerala in southwestern India.
Although the Jewish community of southern India was once influential, its numbers had dwindled to less than 3,000 members when many decided to immigrate to Israel in the 1950s. Judaism was a central part of the community's life and it is possible today to appreciate the rich Jewish history of this community at the Cochin Jewish Heritage Center of Moshav Nevatim, a co-operative agricultural village south of Be'er Sheva.
Nevatim is home to some 600 Jews who trace their roots back to India, and it serves as the spiritual center of the community. On arrival in Israel in the 1950s, the former merchants of Cochin turned to agriculture, successfully developing a thriving business of hothouse flowers, which are grown in the moshav and exported to Europe.
On display today at the Cochin Jewish Heritage Center are colorful and richly embroidered clothes as well as embellished gold and silver ritual objects. Proudly displayed in the museum is the beautiful clothing worn by the brides and grooms of the community. Their daily life is illustrated with cooking utensils and household equipment.
When the museum was under construction in the early 1970s, a letter was received from the few remaining Jews in Cochin who were worried about the future of their historic local synagogue. In response, the community in Israel organised the careful dismantling of the synagogue's interior, its shipping from Cochin and its reconstruction at Nevatim. The synagogue is now part of the museum tour. Inside its ornate interior is a traditional ark and a bima, or reader's table, which dates from the 16th century.
Itsiq Elia was brought to Israel in 1954 at the age of ten, and his parents were among the 27 families who established Nevatim. "It is important for us to pass on our heritage to our descendents," explains Elia, who is the volunteer director of the Jewish Heritage Center. "However, in addition to our children, we believe that the rich traditions of our community are of interest to many other Jews." He notes that bed and breakfast suites are currently being built adjacent to the homes of some families in the moshav, who prepare Indian culinary delicacies for tourists.
While the museum and the synagogue provide an interesting glimpse into the life of the Jewish community of Cochin, the Center is far from complete: in order to create the lush ambience of southwest India, tropical trees will be planted to create shady lagoons, and in the planning stages is a reconstruction of 'Jews Street', which will connect the museum and synagogue. The original Jews Street in Cochin, where the synagogue once stood, was the hub of the neighborhood, with many of its homes, shops and businesses owned by Jews. The museum and synagogue buildings in Nevatim will also be refurbished, highlighting the unique plastering techniques and red tiled roofs that were distinct to the community.
"I still remember watering this parched land as a young boy," Elia reminisces. "Now we can help put the Negev on the map, encouraging Israelis and tourists to visit."