More than 90 years after it was built, Rothschild Boulevard remains
one of Tel Aviv's most elegant streets.
By Simon Griver
Rothschild Boulevard - one of Tel Aviv's oldest and most expensive residential streets - was built along the path of a dry riverbed eastwards and then northwards, with the final section leading up to the Habimah Theater (home of Israel's national theater) completed in 1935. The street was named for Baron Edmond de Rothschild, the French Jewish philanthropist who was patron of many early settlements in the Land of Israel. It is about 1.5 kilometers or just over a mile long, running through the heart of Tel Aviv's financial district, and housing the headquarters of many of the country's banks, venture capital funds and law firms.
The original homes on the street were completed in 1910, and the most interesting section of the street remains its oldest (western) section, which begins almost a kilometer inland from the Mediterranean coast. Tour guide Shulamith Vydrich, who has written a book about
the street entitled "Boulevard", describes this as the "most eclectic" stretch.
"Not only is there a diverse range of different building styles," she explains, "but individual buildings are often made up of an assorted range of designs. One of my favorite buildings is number 13."
Number 13 Rothschild Boulevard is the headquarters of the Mizrahi Bank, one of Israel's largest banks, which has splendidly restored the well proportioned town house, which was originally designed in the "Bezalel" style, combining Middle Eastern and European motifs. Directly opposite is number 16, an austere fortress-like building which was originally the home and office of Meir Dizengoff, the city's first mayor. In 1948, the Knesset (Israel's parliament) convened its first sessions there; today the building is known as Independence Hall, with the former Knesset chamber open to the public, and the second and third floors converted into a Bible Museum. Number 23, a more ornate building with French-Mediterranean-style green shutters, was the home of Eliahu Golomb, the commander of the pre-state clandestine defense organization (Haganah). Today the building is a museum devoted to the history of the Haganah. Dotted in between these buildings are modern glass towers, accentuating the eclectic nature of the neighborhood.
Vydrich reflects on the fact that some of the street's most attractive buildings were knocked down in the name of progress. "Number 28 used to be a beautiful home with oriental designs built in 1910 by the Alfassi family who immigrated from Morocco." One building which was saved at the last moment was Breuer House at number 46, built in 1922 by German Jewish immigrants. In 1948 it was on the verge of demolition, but at the last minute the Soviet ambassador requested the building for his embassy. The complex, structure has tiny, decorative balconies, a slanting, pagoda-like wooden roof, and a minaret. Recently renovated, the building today serves as the Israeli headquarters of the international auction house Sotheby's.
Further east, the street becomes more elegant, with sidewalks shaded by high lush trees and low-rise Bauhaus style apartment buildings. As the street moves northwards, crossing fashionable Shenkin Street, even more austere styles become predominant, with dashes of Oriental grandeur here and there. Number 96, the headquarters of one of Israel's largest venture capital funds, combines traditional European architecture with a high-tech glass atrium. In the street's newest apartment block at number 120, a three-room unit in a building faced with Jerusalem stone sells for about $430,000.
"Despite its elegance," observes Vydrich, "many buildings in the boulevard are badly in need of renovation. The municipality is currently undertaking a multi-million dollar refurbishment of the central promenade, which will include a cycle track and attractive public areas, while private individuals and companies are renovating dozens of buildings."