Village Life in the Hills of Jerusalem

Descending sharply from Mt. Herzl into a valley surrounded by terraced slopes, one approaches the quiet village of Ein Kerem (Spring of the Vineyard) with anticipation. History has recorded the Virgin Mary as Ein Kerem's most important visitor, and today many tourists are coming in her wake. As relayed in the Gospel, Mary travelled from Nazareth to visit her cousin Elizabeth in Ein Kerem: "And when Elizabeth heard Mary-s greeting, the babe John leaped in her womb and Elizabeth was filled with the Holy Spirit." (Luke 1:41).

The Church of the Visitation stands today on what is believed to have been the location of the home of Elizabeth and Zacharias. Another important site is the Church of St. John, built in memory of John the Baptist. It is thought that the original church was constructed in the 4th century; the existing structure dates from 1674.

Life proceeds at a slower pace in Ein Kerem. Pilgrims amble on narrow roadways too tight for their tour buses to squeeze through. A leisurely stroll to either church is further enhanced by the idyllic senery: the area is irrigated by Mary-s Spring - named in honor of the Virgin-s visit - and is filled with flowers, vineyards and olive trees. Quaint shops, restaurants and artists- galleries dot the landscape, and visitors can watch artists paint ceramic tiles, visit the studios of local sculptors, or enjoy displays of artwork inspired by this peaceful neighborhood. Within the last five years, Ein Kerem has blossomed to serve local as well as foreign tourism, and it is a popular stop away from the hustle and bustle of Jerusalem.

Of the 420 families living in Ein Kerem today, many are the original immigrants from Yemen and Morocco, who settled in the village in 1949. New residents have lovingly restored the old stone houses, and property in the neighborhood is now in high demand. But all the residents - veterans and newcomers alike - are committed to protect the character of their village.

Community activist and tour guide Pnina Ein-Mor has lived in Ein Kerem since 1975. She uses the organizational skills she gained as a lieutenant colonel in the Israel Defense Forces to try and preserve the ambiance of Ein Kerem, and to keep the bulldozers at bay.

"One of the biggest threats to Ein Kerem is the planned construction of thousands of homes on these hills," she explains, sweeping her arm in a wide gesture. "Although no one here wants to see these mountains cleared and developed, these building plans are a reality." Ein-Mor claims that if the plans are realized, the charm of the village will be irreparably lost.

Elected several years ago as the chairperson of the Residents Committee of Ein Kerem, Ein-Mor and her -soldiers- are campaigning against the local authority, the Ministry of the Interior and the builders. They have even come up with their own alternative plans. "We can accept that new residences need to be built, so we have come up with plans that call for construction as well as preservation," she says.

The bottom line, however, is that the natural beauty of the area must be preserved. According to Ein-Mor, a way to increase local revenue is to develop what she calls -cultural tourism-. The committee has encouraged village residents to open attractive bed and breakfast facilities. "Tourists always say that Ein Kerem reminds them of Tuscany - perhaps they should say that the region of Italy reminds them of the biblical village of Ein Kerem," she laughs.