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The Transformation of Israeli Cities- Jerusalem

9 Jul 2002
 THE TRANSFORMATION OF ISRAELI CITIES
 INTRODUCTION  |  JERUSALEM  |  JERUSALEM  EXHIBIT  |  JERUSALEM  EXHIBIT  (CONT)  |  TEL-AVIV  |  TEL-AVIV  EXHIBIT  |  TEL-AVIV  EXHIBIT  (CONT)
 
     
JERUSALEM

 
 

 

 

 

 

  Introduction

A walk through the city of Jerusalem reveals a remarkable variety of changing urban textures. Until the 1860s the city was contained within the city walls build by Suleiman the Magnificent; with the arrival of the philanthropist Sir Moses Montefiore, a small settlement was set up across the valley to the west with a windmill to provide employment for the brave souls who dared (at first only during the day) to leave the safety of the Jewish Quarter.

Sir Moses' little colony now called "Yemin Moshe" in his honour, was the first example of modern planning in the city. He built others and towards the end of the nineteenth century, the city began to grow as new immigrants came. They came in waves and built modest low stone houses: a careful look at a map will reveal tight warrens of courtyards and streets, some scarcely two metres wide, irregularly spread around the city wherever land was available. Very often the exact pattern of the streets reveals the favoured characteristics of a particular community: some preferred large open courtyards; others, narrow streets. Two of these settlements, named Mazkeret Moshe and Ohel Moshe and built in testimony to Montefiore, show the efforts of philanthropic builders trying to reflect traditional living patterns in slightly superior surroundings.

But even the most cursory glance at a map will reveal one of the most remarkable features of Jerusalem's planning history - the garden suburb with its geometrical layout, narrow avenues of trees and garden walkways. Modern planning was established in the city as soon as the British establishment their military government there at the end of the First World War. The new rulers established planning procedures and enforced building regulations; famously, most (and eventually all) new buildings in the city were to be faced in stone.

The British influence was not however a matter of dry colonial lawmaking The combination of the essentially rather anarchist arts-and-crafts approach of Charles Ashbee, brought in to hold the novel appointment of city planning adviser and the high-minded, pragmatic Anglicism of Ronald Storrs, the first military governor of the city, created much of the modern image of the city.

The Old City became essentially an object: something to be looked at and learned from. It was therefore to be set in isolation and surrounded (at any rate on the western side where growth was most pressing) by a park. Ashbee built a walk around the Old City walls: he wanted the townspeople to see the way the buildings had grown one upon the other; it was this gradual accumulation over the centuries that fascinated him. He saw planning as essentially an educational matter - the hallmark of the modern planner.

He restored the fourteenth-century cotton market - both the building and the market itself. He saw the activity as inseparable from the place: he realised that the continual transformation of the ancient city was dependent upon maintaining city life itself.

During this period the city council's planning committee approved plans for Richard Kaufmann's garden suburbs which were built for the various Jewish organisations concerned with making the city a centre for their life and activities. Rehavia, designed in three stages from 1924, is scarcely more than a few streets wide and yet its atmosphere is probably the most evocative in the whole of the city. The villas and small blocks of flats were built for the new elite of professionals and academics; those coming from Germany were built in the most progressive German style which found a late Spring in Mandatory Palestine: sometimes these new houses were built of German materials by German builders.

The new garden suburbs weaved around the old settlements: the gaps in between were filled with houses in more esoteric styles. Every short walk through the centre of Jerusalem's residential districts is a journey across fifty or more years of planning history; everywhere one goes, one sees another story from another past; sometimes poignant, sometimes brave, sometimes sad and sometimes startling.

This exhibition is a series of views of buildings that lie along a route through the centre of the city. It does not include some well-known large modern projects, which succeed in creating private worlds of their own; rather it is a look at the buildings which speak the complex and introspective language of the tangled web of the centre of the city. In many cases the photographer Shuki Kook has captured the atmosphere of the buildings especially for the current exhibition. The projects are drawn from the different layers of the past; some are restorations, some substantial extensions or alterations, and some are entirely new. The aim is to give an idea of the complexity of a city which for some exerts an almost mystical pull.


 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  The tour starts and ends at the gates of the Old City. At three points the gates to the city have been changed; Ari Avrahami and partners have built a museum out of the Citadel compound. Peter Bugod and Eunice Figueiredo have restored the Damascus Gate; and Hillel Schocken, whose family brought Eric Mendelsohn in Mandatory Palestine in the 1930s, has created a splendid and entirely new entrance to the south-west of the great new piazza in front of the Western Wall.

The route continues through the largely restored suburb of Yemin Moshe, and across the two gardens (the Bloomfield and Bell Gardens, designed by Ulrik Plessner) to the Laromme Hotel. The Laromme, designed by Yacov Rechter, is a lively newcomer to the city and has vastly raised expectations of modern hotel design in sensitive sites; it is hard to capture its bold three-dimensional form in a photograph. Crossing Rehavia to the north, one comes across two very successful examples of dealing with the need to extend existing buildings of high architectural quality in a sensitive area. Richard Kaufmann, the master planner of Rehavia, built the Goitein House in 1930, and in 1932, the Pomerantz House which faces it. Yacov Molcho has added very considerably to the height of both whilst juggling skillfully with the resulting dramatic change of proportions: those who have forgotten the original appearance of the buildings will find it hard to see how much of both buildings is original. Adding additional floors to the "Bauhaus" style buildings has become something of an art in Rehavia.

A few yards further on Rehavia comes to an end, and one suddenly comes across the small terraced houses of the Sha'arei Hessed settlement (of 1980); the communal rear yards of the houses have been beautifully restored by the Jerusalem Fund. Further along still, there is another remarkable change of scale: one finds that a large public building in the Ohel Moshe settlement of 1883 has been converted (by David Guggenheim and the late Alex Bloch, with the assistance of Salmah Milson-Arad) into a thriving community hall. To the east the former home of the Bezalel Art School, originally a large private, house built for an Egyptian grandee named Abu Shaqir, is to be converted into a gallery and educational centre to competition designs of 1993 by Rosenfeld Arens.

Two quite different urban renewal projects complete the route back to the Old City. At Nahalat Shivah architects Nahum Melzer and Guy Igra have created a lively end entirely new focus of street life lined with cafes and shops from two formerly quiet and forgotten mid-nineteenth century streets. Further to the north, David Guggenheim and Alex Bloch, who masterminded the city's various inner city revival programmes, have brought new life to the Mussrara quarter. Rebuilding and street refurbishment, and the adoption of guidelines for new houses, have brought light into the centre of this area which was problematically situated alongside the border which divided the city until 1967, and which suffered from all the characteristic problems of urban and social neglect. The healing of Mussrara adds a further layer on top of Jerusalem's remarkable urban fabric.

Boaz ben Manasseh

 
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See also
   fifty years of israeli architecture as reflected in jerusalem's buildings
   jerusalem - architecture in the late ottoman period
   jerusalem - architecture in the british mandate period
   jerusalem - architecture since 1948
   
 
   
 
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